An email I received from Michigan City today; inquired: 

Q.  Chappy J; what is the “proper way”, to clean / store the “Bunny”, or “Mickey Mouse” Boots, and MuckLucks?

A.  The two types of Boots used in the artic and other cold weather climates, break down into two types of need; Dry Cold and Wet Cold.

Dry Cold is used in areas where consistent temperatures get down to well below freezing and stays there.

For Extended daily use in temps down to minus -25 degrees F the tar black in rubber begins to separate from it; so the white latex “Bunny Boots” are used for such environments for extended periods of exposure.  For intermittent exposure the Zip-Up Front Muck Lucks’ with pull out liners are used for outings between buildings and routine maintenance/ housekeeping duties in and around facilities. The liners are the same comfy hi-density wool material used inside the Bunny Boots additional insoles are added as needed for extra warmth.

Wet Cold Black Rubber Mickey Mouse Boots with the Air Valve (air lift type) or without (non-pressurized)

For use in heavy wet snow or slush to standing water areas; When New, they came with a blue tag attached and it gave instructions on how to care for your boots. 

Then there is the Army Field Manual FM 31-70, for Cold Weather Operations that elaborates further. 

(1) Boots, Cold Weather, Rubber with Air Valve.

The outside of the boots should be treated with approved agents. Normally, the insulated boot can be repaired with ordinary tire patching or air mattress patching material. If these items are not readily available, friction tape or even chewing gum may be used temporarily to plug up the hole and prevent moisture from damaging the insulation. If the damage cannot be repaired, the boots should be removed, air-dried, and turned in for replacement as soon as possible.

Caution: Do not clean with abrasive materials. Also do not apply polish or paint to any part of the boot as it will result in deterioration of the rubber. (ArmorAll™ is my product of choice)

The inside of the boots should be washed at least once a month with a mild soap, and rinsed with warm water, and thoroughly dried before wearing again.

Note:  If “starting” to feel sensitivity or redness or if a blister develops.  If skin is broken, medicate and cover and then apply a product Called Dr. Scholl’s Moleskin™ or something similar, to cover the affected area, as another way of keeping the rubbing down to a minimum.

 (2) Socks. Socks should be worn a pair at a time and may be used in conjunction with Wicking Sock Liners made of Polypropylene, or Dacron Polyester; worn next to the foot and under the wool artic socks to reduce perspiration build up next to the foot. 

Socks should be washed daily, using lukewarm water to avoid excessive shrinkage. After washing, they should be wrung out and stretched to natural shape before drying. Holes in socks should be repaired as soon as possible, taking special precautions to avoid bunching or roughness of the mended area. It should be noted that proper repairs under field conditions are almost impossible and that blisters should be expected if field mended socks are worn, with out skin protection * see above.

For Muddy/Messy/Gooey or Caked Boots:

1.       Using a soft bristle brush, gently remove any caked dirt, mud or debris from surface.

2.       Wash with clean “mild” soapy water (if available), and “Rinse” with clean warm water thoroughly afterward.

3.       Dry with a terry towel inside and out and let “Air Out” or use a electric boot dryer system if available (often used for cowboy boots) to dry them overnight completely, before next use.

4.       When storing for “End of Season”, clean thoroughly and place in bag to keep out dust, insects and rodents.  Place in cool dry place out of direct sunlight.

Note:  Myself and old timers I have talked to over the past thirty years have given me additional hints on their care and use of the Boots and storage.

1.         With the invention of ArmorAll™  or a similar product, for Rubber and Synthetic Rubber, it is recommended and I agree that a light lubricant be applied occasionally during the season and especially at the end of the season for storage.

2.         The bag of choice is not plastic, as it can condensate and cause moisture to accumulate and become a problem on the inside lining.  The bag I prefer is an old nylon laundry bag and it’s best to make sure it is clean so as not to attract rodents.  Even the smell of a tasty tidbit will attract them and you would end up with gnaw through holes from them foraging for food.

3.        I also agree that a corn starch with several mothballs seem to deter mice and such from wanting to get inside the boots. And the corn starch absorbs and seasonal moisture that might otherwise develop.

4.        Some of my friends do use plastic shopping bags and then put desiccant inside each boot, in a small fabric pouch to control moisture while stored.

5.        As I wrote last time, use of a liquid cement such as liquid rubber or similar is great at repairing minor holes from nails and thorns and such on the Black Rubber Boots.  And Shoo Goop type products do a great job on building out areas that may get severe wear from pedals or shovels and such.  You simply clean the surface of the area to be applied well, add a little to the desired spot and let cure completely.  Repeat the process as often as you need, as long as the primary surface is intact and it will last you many years of use.  On the White Latex Boots, you can find a liquid latex to repair surface cracks being sure to let it cure completely also.

A popular Myth has developed around the use of the Air Valve in either the black or white boots.  Actually it is intended for pressurization while in-flight on Military un-pressurized aircraft or any aircraft that you may find you need it.  Once on the Ground, you are to close the valve and NOT ATTEMPT to further Pressurize the boots.  Inflating, will only damage them and you will end up replacing them or going without. 

Randall Jacobsen is Proprietor of Army Surplus Of Muncie and the head Semester, for Sow N Sews Custom Sewing N Repairs 1810 E. Jackson St. Muncie, IN. 47305     Open: 10:30-5:30 Tues-Sat      Phone: 765-281-8804 E-Mail: ansom47305@yahoo.com is trained in U.S. Army Logistics, Artic-Cold and Tropical Weather Operations; with over thirty years of helping people with their logistical needs.

_______________________________________________________________________________________

An email I received from Michigan City today; inquired:

Q.  Chappy J; what is the “proper way”, to clean / store the “Bunny”, or “Mickey Mouse” Boots?

A.  When New, they came with a blue tag attached and it gave instructions on how to care for your boots.  Then there is the Army Field Manual FM 31-70, for Cold Weather Operations that elaborates somewhat on the subject further.  Here we have an excerpt of it.

a. Footgear.

(1) Boots. The leather in boots should be treated with approved agents. Normally, the insulated boot can be repaired with ordinary tire patching or air mattress patching material. If these items are not readily available, friction tape or even chewing gum may be used temporarily to plug up the hole and prevent moisture from damaging the insulation. If the damage cannot be repaired, the boots should be removed, air-dried, and turned in for replacement as soon as possible. The inside of the boots should be washed at least once a month with a mild soap, and rinsed with warm water.

Caution: Do not clean with abrasive materials. Also do not apply polish or paint to any part of the boot as it will result in deterioration of the rubber.

(2) Socks. Socks should be washed daily, using lukewarm water to avoid excessive shrinkage. After washing, they should be wrung out and stretched to natural shape before drying. Holes in socks should be repaired as soon as possible, taking special precautions to avoid bunching or roughness of the mended area. It should be noted that proper repairs under field conditions are almost impossible and that blisters should be expected if field mended socks are worn.

Note:  Try a product Called Moleskin or something similar, to cover the affected area, if one does “start” to feel sensitivity or redness and / or blister develops.  If skin is broken, medicate and cover and then apply the foot care product.

Another way of saying /doing it is:

1.       Using a soft bristle brush, gently remove any caked dirt, mud or debris from surface.

2.       Wash with clean “mild” soapy water (if available), and “Rinse” with clean warm water thoroughly afterward.

3.       Dry with a terry towel inside and out and let “Air Out” or use a electric boot dryer system if available (often used for cowboy boots) to dry them overnight completely, before next use.

4.       When storing for “End of Season”, clean thoroughly and place in bag to keep out dust, insects and rodents.  Place in cool dry place out of direct sunlight.

Note:  Myself and old timers I have talked to over the past thirty years have given me additional hints on their care and use of the Boots and storage.

1.                   With the invention of Armorall™ or a similar product, for Rubber and Synthetic Rubber, it is recommended and I agree that a light lubricant be applied occasionally during the season and especially at the end of the season for storage.

2.                   The bag of choice is not plastic, as it can condensate and cause moisture to accumulate and become a problem on the inside lining.  The bag I prefer is an old nylon laundry bag and it’s best to make sure it is clean so as not to attract rodents.  Even the smell of a tasty tidbit will attract them and you would end up with gnaw through holes from them foraging for food.

3.                   I also agree that a corn starch with several mothballs seem to deter mice and such from wanting to get inside the boots. And the corn starch absorbs and seasonal moisture that might otherwise develop.

4.                   Some of my friends do use plastic shopping bags and then put desiccant inside each boot, in a small fabric pouch to control moisture while stored.

5.                   As I wrote last time, use of a liquid cement such as liquid rubber or similar is great at repairing minor holes from nails and thorns and such on the Black Rubber Boots.  And Shoo Goop type products do a great job on building out areas that may get severe wear from pedals or shovels and such.  You simply clean the surface of the area to be applied well, add a little to the desired spot and let cure completely.  Repeat the process as often as you need, as long as the primary surface is intact and it will last you many years of use.  On the White Latex Boots, you can find a liquid latex to repair surface cracks being sure to let it cure completely also.

A popular Myth has developed around the use of the Air Valve in either the black or white boots.  Actually it is intended for pressurization while in-flight on Military un-pressurized aircraft or any aircraft that you may find you need it.  Once on the Ground, you are to close the valve and NOT ATTEMPT to further Pressurize the boots.  Trying to do so will only damage them and you will end up replacing them or going without. 

Randall Jacobsen is Proprietor of Army Surplus and the head Semester, for Sow N Sews Custom Sewing N Repairs in Muncie, IN.